MV Ilala Ferry – the Terrific Boat of Lake Malawi: the Ultimate Guide

Last Updated on 27 January 2026 by Cycloscope

Authentic adventures on Lake Malawi:
The Mythical Ilala Ferry and the new and frightening Chambo MV
Everything you need to know to travel around Malawi by boat

Prices, schedules, cabins, classes, and routes around Lake Malawi

The MV Ilala is the only passenger ship connecting the whole Lake Malawi, transporting goods and people from the south to the north of the country, including the islands.

Of course, it is famous for often being late due to maintenance, sometimes even for a few days, and it seems not to be the safest ship in the world, but what Ilala offers is an unparalleled perspective on the life, the reality, the enchanting landscapes and lights of Malawi.

The arrival of the Ilala is always an event in the “harbor” villages… Only three stops are equipped with a real pier; for all the other places the ship stops near the coast, the distance depends on the water depth, usually a few hundred meters.

Landing and boarding are entrusted to the boats of local fishermen and to the two small boats of the Ilala in a poetically daring manner.

A continuous coming and going of boats and canoes reach the Ilala to accompany passengers and transport the precious freight goods to shore, while young eclectics devise creative ways only to get on the bridge and take a selfie, and maybe a Chibuku at the bar.

We sailed on the Ilala from Monkey Bay to Likoma (about 27 hours), and it felt great; we didn’t have mechanical problems and left and arrived on time.

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History and Route of the Ilala

The MV Ilala has crossed Lake Malawi from north to south and vice versa since 1951. Every week, it departs from Monkey Bay, in the south of the lake, and reaches Chilumba, near the border with Tanzania, then retraces the same route back.

It carries passengers and goods, stopping at the main towns on the west coast of Lake Malawi – plus one on the east coast, a few kilometers from the border with Mozambique – as well as at the two islands of Likoma and Chizumulu, in Mozambican waters but belonging to Malawi.

Yarrow Shipbuilders built the Ilala for Nyasaland Railways in Scotland in 1949. The boat was named after the Ilala region of Zambia, where David Livingstone was first buried.

Once built, the ship was dismantled and transported into pieces in Malawi, first by ship to Beira, Mozambique, then by rail and road to Chipoka, in the south of Lake Malawi.

The Ilala began sailing the lake in 1951 and has continued to operate uninterruptedly since then, except for maintenance periods.

The British historian, traveler, and writer Oliver Ransford describes life on board the MV Ilala in his book “Malawi, Livingstone’s Lake“:

Every day onboard, amid the exciting bell that rings, cries of sirens and shouts that seem inseparable from all maritime arrivals and departures, the laughing crowds of Malawians line up on the Ilala bridge to disembark, cluttered with baggage that includes bicycles, cages full of birds, sewing machines, and even tied goats. They are transported to the ground to return after about an hour, crammed with another group of passengers who quickly settle in the narrow spaces to sing, sleep, and prepare meals in small pots. (from Wikipedia)

Read our full article about Monkey Bay and Cape Maclear

Detailed itinerary of the Lake Malawi Ferry – MV Ilala in 2026

At the time of writing, these are the Ilala stops on Lake Malawi. In the past, the ship arrived in Karonga and then in Tanzania, but now this route is no longer in use.

It is not certain that it will be restored in the future. Check the official website for updates, even if real-time updates are not guaranteed.

• Monkey Bay, Malawi
• Makanjila
• Senga Bay, Malawi
• Nkhotakota, Malawi
• Likoma Island, Malawi
• Chizumulu Island, Malawi
• Nkhata Bay, Malawi
• Usisya, Malawi
• Ruarwe, Malawi
• Ncharo, Malawi
• Mlowe, Malawi
• Chilumba, Malawi

Timetables of the MV Ilala on Lake Malawi

Monkey Bay – Chilumba (from South to North)

Port	Day	Arr.	Dep.
Monkey Bay	Friday		08.00
Makanjila	Friday	11.00	12.00
Senga Bay	Friday	13.30	14.30
Nkhota Kota	Friday	21.30
Nkhota Kota	Saturday		04.00
Likoma	Saturday	10.30	17.00
Chizumulu	Saturday	18.30	20.30
Nkhata Bay	Saturday	23.55
Nkhata Bay	Sunday		05.00
Usisya	Sunday	08.00	09.00
Ruarwe	Sunday	10.00	10.30
Tcharo	Sunday	11.30	12.30
Mlowe	Sunday	14.00	14.30
Chilumba	Sunday	17.30

Chilumba – Monkey Bay (from North to South)

Port	Day	Arr.	Dep.
Chilumba	Monday		02.30
Mlowe	Monday	05.30	06.00
Tcharo	Monday	07.30	08.00
Ruarwe	Monday	09.00	09.30
Usisya	Monday	10.30	11.30
Nkhata Bay	Monday	14.30
Nkhata Bay	Tuesday		01.30
Chizumulu	Tuesday	05.30	07.30
Likoma	Tuesday	09.00	15.00
Nkhota Kota	Tuesday	22.00
Nkhota Kota	Wednesday		15.00
Senga Bay	Wednesday	12.00	13.30
Makanjira	Wednesday	15.00	17.00
Monkey Bay	Wednesday	20.00

Cabins and Upper Deck Passage on the Ilala Boat

On the Ilala, there are two possibilities for sleeping: double cabins, clean and equipped with a fan, and the “owner’s cabin,” which has a sink inside. Showers with hot water and bathrooms are shared but only for those with higher-class tickets (cabin or deck).

If you do not want the cabin, you can take the upper deck ticket, deck crossing, where you can sleep by placing your tent or simply with a mattress and sleeping bag.

The cheapest place is the one with no sleeping solution, but you will be forced to stay under the bridge; only those with the upper deck ticket can go there (a little Titanic-style).

Prices

In the tables below, you will find ticket prices for each route and chosen solution. Prices are in Kwacha, the only currency you can use to pay for a ticket.

You cannot pay by credit card. If you do not have enough cash and the ATM is not working (which is not at all rare), there are always people available to change dollars near the ticket offices.

Rates Ilala – Economy Class (without a bed or deck passage)

Ilala Rates – Second Class (without a bed or deck passage)

Ilala Prices – Upper Deck Passage (possibility of camping with your own tent)

Ilala rates – Standard Cabin

There is also the option to book a first-class cabin at a price not much higher than the standard cabin. The prices shown in the table are per person; children up to 12 years pay 50%.

Services on the MV Ilala

On the ship, there is a bar with fresh beer and other drinks, and a restaurant serving simple, acceptable food. The service, on the other hand, is of another time, recalling how this ship must have been in the fifties, when it was served by waiters in white gloves, and the cabins were luxurious.

MV Chambo Boat: Mozambique – Likoma – Chizumulu – Nkhata Bay

The MV Chambo is a new ship, 32 meters long and 7 meters wide, which connects the coast of Mozambique to the islands of Likoma and Chizumulo and arrives at Nkhata Bay.

Sail 3 times a week, much more frequently than the Ilala, and for the inhabitants of these islands, it is a nice progress.

We took the Chambo from Likoma, and we have to say that although it is certainly newer than the Ilala, it did not give us a feeling of security.

Lake Malawi is more like a sea; we encountered rough water, and the ship, too small for this type of crossing, swayed terribly. Furthermore, the maximum capacity is 100 people and 10 tons of load, but we would transport at least twice that.

If you are sure the lake’s waters are calm, it is certainly a faster way to reach the islands, taking around 4 or 5 hours. On the internet, there is news about a connection between Mozambique and Tanzania, but it is not active at the moment.

Moreover, on the Chambo Wikipedia page, it is reported that vehicles can be transported on the ship, but this is absolutely not true; only bicycles and maybe a couple of scooters can be transported.

Conclusions and advice

Before buying tickets you have to keep in mind a couple of things, first: the delays can be counted in days (even if this rarely happens), therefore, you should have at least 3 days of margin if, for example, you have a flight to take.

This should be taken into consideration even more if you plan to go to the island of Likoma; if the Ilala gets stuck there, you may have to wait days with few other options to leave.

Also, check the weather conditions, especially the wind, which could cause rough water and an unpleasant journey.

Apart from this, the Ilala is a great way to explore Lake Malawi and especially the lives of the people who live on its shores.

Planning Malawi? Absolutely check our

Backpacking Malawi – The best travel guide about Malawi on the web
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