Kazakhstan: Not Just Steppe – Charyn Canyon and Esik Lake

Last Updated on 16 January 2026 by Cycloscope

Kazakhstan is Not Just Steppe. Charyn Canyon and Esik Lake. What to see around Almaty

Among the things to do around Almaty, visiting Charyn Canyon is definitely a must, while the less-known Esik Lake is also worth a visit. Both can be reached on a day trip from Almaty if you’re using motorized transport.

By bicycle, though, neither of them is so easy to reach. Another nice day trip is the Big Almaty Lake; unfortunately, we didn’t go there, but you can read more in the linked article.

We visited both in 7 days while waiting for the Chinese visa. Check out Caravanistan for more things to do and see around Almaty.

Bicycle touring from Almaty to Esik Lake

We head for Lake Esik, an alpine lake about 60 kilometers east of Almaty, at 1800msl. Before reaching the town of Esik, about 10 kilometers from the lake, we stopped to visit the Esik History Museum (500 tenge per person).

It’s a small but nice museum; there is a reproduction of the Golden Warrior, found in one of the many Scythian tombs scattered around here, which look like simple mounds of earth.

After the village, which is quite large and has a big bazaar, we face the last kilometers to the lake, after paying the park entrance fee (350 tenge).

A beautiful road that follows a river flowing between the mountains, and finally, some trees! But quite tough and steep indeed, the last 5 kilometers we must push, and this takes us almost two hours.

Esik Lake – The Beauty and The Beasts

Finally reaching the top of the hill, Esik Lake shows itself in all its marvels. Blue turquoise waters where pine trees and snow-covered peaks are mirrored.

Once we get down to the lake’s shores, though, we start wondering what the money from the entrance fee is used for; there is rubbish everywhere.

The question is, of course, rhetorical. Quite a few people here, all Kazakhs, and all of them leave their garbage behind. What is most disturbing is that they teach children to do that.

There was a class field trip, and the teachers told the kids to clear the table, then made them throw everything onto the grass.

Sometimes, along the roads of Kazakhstan, we saw employees collecting bottles thrown from cars, piling them, and setting them on fire.

That seems to be the best the Kazakh government is doing against the rubbish problem. Lake Esik is still gorgeous, the water is crystal clear and very cold, so unfortunately, no bath. It was formed 10,000 years ago and, until the ’60s, was a popular tourist destination.

Then a landslide destroyed the natural dam that supported the lake. There have been several deaths, and the water level has greatly reduced the lake’s size. Here, you can camp freely; there are bathrooms (the usual holes in the ground) and gazebos with tables and benches.

The night is cold, and we sleep very little because of four or five big wild boars spilling all the garbage from the bins a couple of meters from the tent. At least they are not bears.  And then, it’s not the boar’s fault if humans have left them a banquet for free.

Getting to Charyn Canyon

When they finally leave, it is almost dawn, and instead of wild boar, there comes a family of donkeys braying. The wild ones are typical of this area.

With donkeys around our tent, we get up and head towards the Charyn Canyon, downhill! We find a nice alternative route to the main road, along the Almaty Grand Canal.

It’s a very pleasant way through the fields. There are some ups and downs in the hills, but nothing heavy, and it’s worth it.

Very few cars also seem to have a bike path to themselves. In two days, we get to the Canyon. The last 11km is on a gravel washboard, but it is flat, so it is not as tough as the road to Song Kul in Kyrgyzstan.

Charyn Canyon

Just past the gate where we pay the entry fee (500 Tenge again), we are faced with this astounding, unbelievable natural wonder.

We haven’t seen the Grand Canyon in the US, so we can’t make comparisons, but it is stunning. And this time, the money is used for maintenance.

This place is more visited by foreign tourists, so park authorities are more careful. To get down to the bottom of the Charyn Canyon, there are long and steep stairs. So, bringing the bikes down is kind of a nightmare.

But worth it; the path inside the canyon makes for a great ride. Following it, we arrive at the Charyn River, where the path ends. Here, too, unfortunately, the water is ice cold, so no bath.

This area is designated as a free campground, and they have recently planted small trees that will one day provide shade. There are a dozen tents, and the campers are all Russians.

Near the free camping, there is a restaurant with normal prices, despite being inside the canyon. But the Russians have boiled potatoes, boiled eggs, salad of tomatoes and cucumbers, lots of chives, and the inevitable raw tins of patè. They are very friendly and share everything with us.

The power of cow poop

Then, all together, at sunset, they enact a cleansing ritual. They have a small bowl filled with dried cow dung. All set fire to poop, everyone has their bowl. They say that any open flame has the power to purify for 10 kilometers, protecting against radiation and all that is harmful. What can I say, the big powers of cow poop.

They believe it is an ancient Indian ritual and seem very satisfied with the recent purification. We sleep in the peace of the canyon; there is a bit of cloud, and we cannot see the stars.

Getting out of Charyn and back to Almaty

The morning climb is not easy; we have to redo the path inside the canyon back to its beginning, and it is all uphill now.

Along the trail, we meet many green pea worms with stingers (are these the poisonous ones?). Then there are the stairs awaiting us. Bikes on shoulders, here we go.

We go back to the main road via the path to Jarkent, a longer route of about 20 kilometers. The trail is dirt for the first 12 kilometers, but it is not as bad as the southern one (where we came from). Much less washboard, great landscape, really alien. The last 8 km are sandy and not so pleasant.

Again, we cannot see the famous little rodent of the Kazakh grasslands, which everyone saw except us. Around here is full of holes, so there should be plenty, but they don’t show up.

Once on the road, we hitchhiked back to Almaty (not to make the same road twice and then a third time to go to China). We arrived on the asphalt road, we waited exactly one minute, and a truck stopped.

It’s a Kurdish guy. We load the bikes, not without hassle, behind the seat (in practice, on his bed). He takes us to Almaty, pays us lunch, and buys a lot of strawberries. In short, the usual truck driver… don’t forget to hitchhike trucks in Kazakhstan, it’s the funniest thing to do here.