It was supposed to be a relatively simple London to Istanbul route.. but then the pandemic struck. I had set out early spring of 2020 striking Italy from my itinerary but naively believing I would be otherwise unhindered. 2 weeks later I was in lockdown in Munich.
Since then my journey has meandered, paused, and doubled back as Covid restrictions and border closures required.
On the way I’ve been robbed, contracted covid, and had a gun pulled on me. I crossed the highest pass in Austria, visited empty Venice and spent the winter in a remote Macedonian border village.
I’ve slept in monasteries, ancient tombs, and after pitching up in the dark, woke to find myself on the edge of Europe’s deepest canyon.
There, in Albania, I was quite possibly the first fully loaded cyclist to cross the mountains via goat trail from Girojaster to Korçë. 18months and 15000kms later I arrived in Istanbul, but the journey doesn’t end there.
My iPhone is my most essential piece of equipment, my msr hubba hubba tent has served me well over the years.. everything else is pretty replaceable
Finding couchsurfing hosts in smaller towns
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I will in a fixed AU$100/week which is pretty comfortable throughout the Balkans (whilst free camping) daily a bürek and fresh ayran are cheap and filling. I was rarest more than a few hours from a shop.
I almost exclusively wildcamped. There are few warm showers hosts in the Balkans. Monasteries we generally welcoming places to sleep, abandoned buildings inland, and on the beach at the coast. Hostels in Bulgaria are affordable; $5-10/night.
It is possible – and I believe ethical – to travel at this time. Stall holders in the grand bazaar are desperate for the return of tourists missing while Turkey is on many country’s red lists.
So long as we take proper precautions, follow the guidelines, keep abreast of the ever changing situation, and spend money in the local economy then it can be an incredible opportunity to see Europe’s heavily touristed places without the crowds
Touring during the pandemic has completely altered the way I travel; it’s taught me to slow down, and go with the flow. While I still always have a plan, I’m a lot more ready to change it as the situation requires.
hels on wheels
Full time global hobo since 2004, by bike since 2017. Travelling the world on AU$100/week creating vlogs, blogs, and photos as I go.