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Bicycle Touring in the less known Croatia, across Karlovac and Sisak. Witnessing the biggest flood of the century in the region.
Check down below for a photo map of the cycling journey.
Ravna Gora – Karlovac
For thirty kilometers nothing but woods, occasionally a car. There are some groups of houses once in a while, but aside from the barking of dogs (all strictly chained), we don’t hear any noise, not a radio, a TV, the cry of a child.
We arrive along the Kupa river. Impressive. Especially because it seems on the verge of overflowing. Then Karlovac, across the city, which we liked (for those who like a little “decadence”). The city was heavily bombed during the Balkan’s war and the scars are evident.
It starts to rain and soon after the city we stop to sleep in the usual grove, but this time no good sprites around. It was a scary forest, tall trees with a very thin trunk.
With a strong wind some branch broke and we could hear the noise, a bit disturbing. We cooked with the helmet on our heads!
Karlovac – Sisak
We survived the night. No trees collapsed in the tent. But it’s raining, raining, ultra-raining.
We have seen the weather reports but we were hoping, as often happens, that they’ll be wrong. And instead this time they got it right.
We start at 10.00 am with 30 kilometers of real flat. We get back along the river Kupa. We stop to eat under a bus shelter.
The Président falls from its stand and roll! It almost ends up in the river! While we eat two dogs approach, one smaller and coward and the other a bit bigger, he looks like a big puppy. He brings us sticks to play with us. It has a collar so it is someone’s dog, maybe it escaped from the chain.
We leave and the dog follow us for a couple of kilometers. In the meanwhile it stops being “the dog”, we give him a name: Scoppio. We try to convince him to go back, but no way.
And Scoppio follows us, downhill he goes 35 km/h, we think that sooner or later he will get tired and come back.
We’re very wet. We find an “apartmani”, we give him two sausages and greet him. We hope he will find someone who is good and who loves him. Or maybe it will be here waiting for us tomorrow morning.
We really do not know what has prompted him to follow us for 60km under the rain. We haven’t even given him anything to eat. Maybe he just wanted to run. We are very worried but there’s not much we can do for Scoppio.
Although we’d like to take him with us for the whole trip!
Keeping on riding we see what the flood left behind. The woods are completely flooded, we only see the tops of the trees, it seems that crocodiles can suddenly appear. A true swamp.
We go in search of the alcohol for our stove but can’t find it. Finally, we understand how they call it in Croatian, and that is found only in hardware stores but it’s Saturday and everything is closed.
Bucolic road between sheep and singing chickens to Novska.
After cycling some beautiful country roads we start looking for a place to sleep but it’s not simple. It seems that this is the most densely populated area of Croatia. On the left, there is a small road that goes into the grove.
We put the tent on a field after the cemetery just next to the road. It’s a quagmire, but we did not have many alternatives. Also, it’s quite cold, around 8°C and with a lot of humidity, we’ll have to sleep with the hood on our head.
Navigate the city of Karlovac with us
Novska – Oriovac
At 11:00 we leave. It rains at times but it is hotter than yesterday. Flat.
Tomorrow we’ll go to Bosnia! We hope to find alcohol for the stove, it seems that nobody knows what it is and we so we can’t cook.